Source: Global Organic Textile Standard
It's officially 2023, and today more than ever businesses are introducing organic and sustainable products to their collections. Unfortunately in many cases, what is supposed to support positive change can merely be buzzwords and greenwashing schemes in an attempt to make greater profits.
Although this implies a list of very complex issues in many industries, at its core is a simple shortcoming: transparency. Shopping organic can be difficult when there is little clarity as to a) how products are organically manufactured and b) the complete percentage of organic content within a product. Many companies include "organic" in a product title when it fact there can be as little as 10% organic fibre. It isn't lying, but it certainly is misleading.
Questions like these have led to third parties like GOTS to create greater transparency within the textile industry. As a clothing brand who uses GOTS cotton, we believe it is important to understand its process and what exactly makes a t-shirt "certified organic."
DEFINING THE STANDARD
The Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) is a voluntary "textile processing standard for organic fibres, including ecological and social criteria, backed by independent certification of the entire textile supply chain" (GOTS, 2021).
For a product like our organic t-shirts to be certified, all requirements of the Global Organic Textile Standard must be followed throughout the harvesting of raw fibres, the manufacturing, and the finished organic product. Collaborators with the standard can include the apparel and textile, organic agriculture, chemical suppliers, environmental organizations, etc.
There are two levels of GOTS labelling based on the percentage of organic fibres used. GOTS Organic is the qualified label containing at least 95% organic fibres (which is the label livologie uses). The GOTS Made with Organic label is the second, containing a minimum of 70% certified organic fibres.
The definition of organic production used by GOTS is as follows:
A system of farming that maintains and replenishes soil fertility without the use of toxic, persistent pesticides or synthetic fertilizers. In addition, it includes the welfare standards for animal husbandry and prohibits genetically modified organisms (GOTS, 2021)
THE MISSION
The Global Organic Textile Standard was first created in 2006 by four major contributors: Japan Organic Cotton Association (JOCA), Organic Trade Association (OTA), Internationaler Verband der Naturtextilwirtschaft (IVN), and The Soil Association. The standard originated through a mutual desire to "harmonize" their individual standards into an internationally recognized and understood practice.
Today, GOTS expresses it's vision for organic textiles to become "a significant part of everyday life, enhancing people's lives and the environment," while it's mission is for the "development, implementation, verification and promotion of the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS)" (GOTS, 2021).
Source: Global Organic Textile Standard
The aim is to achieve complete transparency and trustworthiness in a product's production and manufacturing relating to it's organic fibre and ethical creation.
GOTS FEATURES
GOTS identifies itself across four features: (1) Organic Fibres; (2) Ecological and Social Criteria; (3) All Processing Stages; and (4) Third-Party Certification. All criteria must be met in order to be certified:
The certification bodies regularly audits all parties involved in the manufacturing of GOTS-certified textiles through comprehensive on-site inspections, in order to verify that all GOTS environmental and social requirements are met (GOTS, 2021)
Source: Global Organic Textile Standard
Environmental and social criteria within the processing and manufacturing stages are considerable evaluated in order to become certified. Some examples of criteria include:
- Evaluation of toxicity and biodegradability for chemical inputs
- Processing units must demonstrate environment management, including wastewater treatment
- Employment is freely chosen
- No discrimination, harassment or violence
- Occupational health and safety (OHS)
The social criteria is based on norms by International Labour Organization (ILO), United Nations Guiding Principles on Business and Human Rights (UNGPs) and Organization for Economic Cooperation and Development (OECD). This ensures the standard complies with the 17 UN Sustainable Development Goals.
WHY IT'S IMPORTANT
Not only does GOTS assure responsible and sustainable organic production, it provides credibility for businesses and to consumers that product's are verified as ethical for people and planet.
There are many great reasons to incorporate organics into your wardrobe. From best practices for workers and environments, to owning high-quality garments, supporting slow fashion and avoiding chemical sensitivity.
Making this big shift can start with your t-shirts. Shop livologie and visit us at www.livologie.ca
